Tartan, << TAHR tuhn, >> is a plaid cloth pattern that developed chiefly in Scotland. The design consists of stripes of various widths and colors. The stripes cross at right angles against a solid color background. The principal clans (tribes) in Scotland, especially the clans in the Highlands, have their own tartans. Scottish regiments have also adopted tartans. In the United States, the word tartan also means a cloth or a garment with a tartan design.
The cloth that is used to make tartan is usually wool. A tartan design is called a sett. The sett may be made in any size, depending on the intended use of the cloth. But the proportions of the stripes must remain the same. The colors of a sett may vary in shade.
A Scottish Highlander wears a tartan kilt (a knee-length pleated skirt) and may carry a plaid over the left shoulder. A plaid is a blanketlike mantle fastened at the shoulder with a brooch. The costume also includes a sporran (pouch) hanging in front of the kilt, a doublet (jacket), and a bonnet (cap). The stockings may be of tartan pattern, and the brogues (shoes) are low-cut. Tartan trews (trousers) are sometimes worn as an alternative to the kilt, especially by the Lowland Scottish regiments.
The use of checkered garments dates back to ancient times. The Irish, the Britons, the Caledonians of Scotland, and the Celts in Europe wore them. Scottish literature first referred to tartan in the 1200’s. Originally, tartans in Scotland were associated with districts. Later, they were used to identify the chief clan or family of an area. Extra lines were added to some setts to show rank.
Originally, the kilt and the plaid were part of a single large piece of tartan cloth. Wearers folded the tartan lengthwise and held it at the waist with a belt. They threw the rest over the shoulder and pinned it. In bad weather, they wore it over the head and shoulders. When sleeping outside, they used it as a blanket. Today, a smaller kilt called a filibeg and the plaid are worn separately.
After the Jacobite Rebellion in 1745, the British Parliament banned tartan and the use of Highland dress until 1782. Some old setts were lost, but many new ones were invented, especially about 1820, when the works of Scottish writer Sir Walter Scott awakened interest in Highlands traditions. Today, the tartan is popular throughout the world, particularly in countries where many people have Scottish ancestors. People often wear tartans associated with their name or ancestry.
