Linen << LIHN uhn >> is the yarn or cloth made from fibers of the flax plant. The fibers measure from 6 to 40 inches (15 to 100 centimeters) long and are chiefly from the woody part of the plant. The terms linen and flax are sometimes used interchangeably.
Linen fabrics.
Flax ranks among the strongest natural fibers. It is used in a variety of products that require high strength, including sewing thread, fish nets, fire hose, and mattress covers. However, such synthetic fibers as nylon and polyester are even stronger than flax and are used today in many of these products.
Linen has been a popular fabric for clothing. Linen feels cool because it conducts heat well and carries off the body’s heat. Although linen is comfortable, it creases easily. Linen fabric can be treated with a resin to improve its crease resistance, but the fabric becomes less comfortable as a result. Linen fabric is used for tablecloths, napkins, dish towels, and handkerchiefs because it wears well and is highly absorbent.
Preparing the fibers.
Flax harvested in late summer produces the finest quality linen. The stalks are pulled, tied into bundles, and dried in the sun. They then pass through a coarse comb that removes the seeds.
Next comes a process called retting, which is actually a kind of rotting. In dew-retting, the stalks are spread on grass and kept moist for several weeks. The combined action of bacteria and moisture breaks down the tissue surrounding the flax fibers. The fibers can then be separated from the woody bark and straw of the stalk. In water-retting, which is more common, the stalks are retted in slow-moving rivers or bogs for one or two weeks. In another method of water-retting, the stems are soaked in large tanks of warm water for four to eight days. Retting with chemicals is quicker than the other methods. But the chemicals used for retting may weaken the flax fibers.
After retting, the flax is dried. A machine then breaks the woody bark into small bits and separates out the fibers. Finally, the fiber is combed to produce long fibers called line and short, irregular fibers called tow. Line is most often woven into high-quality products such as fine tablecloths and very thin fabrics. The yarns spun from tow may be coarse and are generally used in dish-towels and other less expensive items.
History.
Flax is one of the oldest fibers in the world. Shreds of cloth made from flax have been found at prehistoric sites in Switzerland. The ancient Egyptians grew flax along the Nile River about 7,000 years ago. They wrapped mummies in linen before placing them in tombs. Egyptian and Israelite priests wore linen cloth at religious ceremonies. Linen is mentioned in the Bible. The ancient Greeks wore linen clothing, and the Romans knew how to make linen paper as well as linen cloth. Linen fabrics were fashionable among the nobility during the Middle Ages.
During the 1600’s, skilled Flemish and French workers helped develop linen spinning and weaving in northern Europe. Since that time, linen fabrics from France, Belgium, and Ireland have become internationally famous.
The first American settlers planted flaxseed so that they could make linen. At one time, almost all households in the American Colonies raised flax, spun the yarn, and wove it into linen. However, cotton began to be used in place of linen after the invention of Eli Whitney’s cotton gin in 1793. Whitney’s gin made cotton yarn cheaper to produce than linen yarn. For that reason, the United States never produced large amounts of fiber flax. Today, fiber flax is not raised commercially in the United States or Canada.
