Westwood, Vivienne (1941-2022), was a British fashion designer and business executive. Westwood became known for her innovative designs in the fashion industry. She has been described as a “designer’s designer.” A designer’s designer generally creates garments that influence other designers but that mainstream shoppers consider impractical for daily wear.
Vivienne Isabel Swire was born on April 8, 1941, in Glossop, Derbyshire, England. She began her studies in fashion and art at the Harrow School of Art (now part of the University of Westminster). However, she doubted her ability to make a living in art and finished her studies in teacher education. She married Derek Westwood in 1962 and began working as a teacher. Several years later, Vivienne Westwood met the British designer Malcolm McLaren, who became her partner. The Westwoods divorced in 1966.
In 1971, Vivienne began to create clothing designed by McLaren. By the mid-1970’s, she had begun to design punk style clothing. In the 1970’s, punk style described clothing that violated normal expectations for a finished garment. The clothing might be torn or intentionally damaged, made to be worn inside out, unfinished, covered with chains or pins, or printed with shocking slogans.
Westwood’s influence increased after her clothing was worn by the Sex Pistols, a popular British punk rock band managed by McLaren. Westwood and McLaren sold the provocative designs through their unconventional London clothing shop, Let It Rock. Westwood began selling her creations under her own Vivienne Westwood label at the shop, which underwent several name changes.
Westwood designed her first runway collection, called the Pirate Collection, in 1981. She received particular acclaim for the collection, which included such slouchy, unisex pirate clothes as hats and baggy trousers. Westwood’s fashion designs featured such traditional textiles and styles as Scottish tartans and historical silhouettes (overall shapes of garments), reinterpreted into dramatic contemporary clothing. Her high-quality workmanship utilized precise tailoring that emphasized cut and shape. The shapes could be exaggerated or constricting. Westwood’s attention to proportion and detail helped her create trends rather than follow the lead of other fashion designers.
As a business executive, Westwood built her company, Vivienne Westwood Ltd., into an international organization. She was honored as British Fashion Designer of the Year in 1990 and 1991. In 1992, she was named an Officer of the Order of the British Empire. She was elevated to Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire in 2006 for services to fashion. Westwood taught fashion design courses and was active in human rights and other causes, including campaigning to prevent climate change. In 1992, Westwood married her former fashion design student Andreas Kronthaler, who became her design partner. Westwood died on Dec. 29, 2022.
